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WD 'Blackout' System - Modded Build (Part 2)

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Added by shubnigg in Gamers Gadgets


Following on from part one of our WD_blackout special build project, today we pick up where we left off. Towards the end of part one, I spoke about the idea of making a DIY distro plate to sit on top of the Phanteks P600S power supply shroud and started making a template of the distro plate layout. In part two, I take the idea from a cardboard template to an actual working model made from several cast acrylic sheets, but will the idea be a success? Let’s find out.

00:00 Start / Introduction
00:39 Stripped the case down - painted black
01:11 Hydrodipped panels and laser cut panels to come
02:42 A prototype
06:12 Distro Plate - preparation
11:00 Making the distro plate
20:12 The finished distro plate and pressure discussion
23:00 A test
24:07 Some results and improvements to be made
25:46 In the next video !
26:24 BONUS: Some of James mods, so far …

Materials used to construct the distro plate:

• 8mm thick Cast acrylic Perspex sheet
• 2 x 5mm thick Cast acrylic Perspex sheets
• M4 x 18mm button head Stainless Steel machine screws
• Various adhesives/sealants
• HSS Jigsaw blades
• M4 x 0.7 HSS metric coarse machine tap
• G1/4 HSS machine tap
• 3mm HSS drill bit
• 5mm HSS drill bit
• 8mm HSS drill bit

Here are the steps I took to make the distro plate:
• Transfer the dimensions from the template to the acrylic sheet that will be used for the upper cover, I found that marking the protective film with the dimensions was done bets using a biro.
• Clamp all three pieces of acrylic together using g-clamps and bolting the sheets together in an area that will be cut off ready for cutting/drilling.
• Drill out all of the screw holes through all three pieces of acrylic while clamped together, I used a 3.3mm drill since m4 screws were being used to hold the plate together.
• After drilling out all of the screw holes, I ran an m4 tap through the screw holes while the three acrylic sheets were still clamped together and then using a jigsaw set to a slow speed with a fine HSS cutting blade, I cut out the outline shape of the distro plate.
• I then widened the screw holes in the upper two sheets of acrylic to 4.5mm using a HHS drill bit in the drill press, cut out the water channels in the central piece of acrylic and then bonded and clamped the three acrylic sheets together using adhesive and m4 machine screws.

System Specification
• CPU: Intel Core i5-11600K
• Motherboard: MSI MPG Z590 Gaming Carbon WiFi
• Memory: 32GB (4x8GB Modules) Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL
• Graphics Card: Asus ROG Strix RTX 3080
• Storage 1: 1TB WD Black SN850 NVMe M.2 SSD
• Storage 2: 2TB WD Blue SN550 NVMe M.2 SSD
• Case: Phanteks Eclipse P600S
• Power Supply: Corsair RM850 850W 80+Gold
Cooling – Corsair Hydro X Custom cooling
• Pump/res: XD5 RGB Pump/Reservoir Combo
• Radiator: XR7 360mm Water Cooling Radiator
• Fittings: XF Hardline 14mm OD
• Tubing: XT Hardline 14mm Tubing — Satin Black
• System Fans: 7 x Corsair SP120 RGB Elite Performance
• Distro plate: Custom Made PSU Shroud Mounted

Upcoming Mods:
• Hand made PSU shroud mounted distro plate
• Blackout interior
• Custom cooling loop using satin black tubing
• Carbon Hydro Dipping
• Custom black/orange sleeved power cables
• Case mods

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KitGuru uses a variety of equipment to produce content:
As of February 2021:
Panasonic S1 Cameras / Panasonic GH5 and GH5s Cameras
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Panasonic G7 Cameras
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Final output – colour grading/titling etc:
Mac Pro 2019 - 16 core, Radeon Pro Vega 2 Duo 64GB, 384GB, 120TB Raid
iMac Pro 18 Core/Vega 64/128GB
iMac 2019 9900k Vega 48/64/1TB
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Davinci Resolve Studio 14/15 (Mac)
iPad Pro 12.9 inch (2018) machines with LumaFusion
Final Cut Pro (Mac)

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